This last period I'm more and more thinking in a direction of making complete projects over prototypes as I want to maybe start making and selling some of the projects commercially. In one such idea session, I came up with the idea of making a corner light that has 3D printed base and an upright T8 style LED light bar. The light will be connected to my Home Assistant setup and will be controlled by a Zigbee Mini Switch for which I modeled an insert space on the back of the base.
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Selecting the T8 Light
What is special about the light used in the project is the fact the both of the AC connections need to be provided from one side. This is different from the most common ones as they have the separate connections on the opposite sides.
This is crucial as it allows us to house the entire wiring inside the base and prevents us from having to think how to route the wires to the top.
For the length, I went with 1.2 meter long lights as that is what I found locally but if you find longer, you may also use them as well.
3D Printed Base
The base for the light is made out of a 3D printed cube, measuring 12x12x12 cm. On the top, the edges are rounded and there is a sloth in it coming from the top, about four fifths deep. This is then connected with another channel coming in from the back where another sloth is cut for the controlling module.
I've modeled the base in Fusion, and then in my slicing software, I added a modifier to the bottom so it does not print the bottom layers. This makes the model hollow on the bottom so that we can later add extra material to make it heavier.
For the infill, I used the gyroid pattern as this leaves the entire volume of the cube as one section and as such, it is much easier to fill it with plaster or other similar material so it can gain some weight.
Pouring the Plaster
I started by mixing plaster with water until it reached a runny consistency - not too thick, but not watery either. The key was getting it just fluid enough to pour into the 3D printed base without leaving air gaps. As I poured the first batch in, I used a vibrating tool (without any sandpaper attachment) to help the mixture settle and remove any trapped air bubbles.
After the first pour, I realized I needed more plaster to fill the entire cavity. The gyroid infill pattern inside the base meant the plaster could flow freely through all the internal spaces. I mixed a second batch and repeated the process, making sure to scrape off any excess from the top while it was still wet.
I left it to cure for about 24 hours and when I checked it the next day, the base was rock solid and surprisingly heavy (about 2.5kg). There was some minor plaster leakage through tiny gaps in the print, but nothing that affected the structure. Plaster or similar materials like cement develop a slight temperature increase when they are curing and I was slightly worried that this might deform the plastic but luckily, the temperature only rose slightly and was no danger for the base.
Wiring the light
With the light and base ready, it was now time to wire it together and this is really a very simple process. The smart switch module has two connections for the input, live and neutral, and two others for the output. The output terminals are first pushed through the channel on the base to come up to the top and are then wired to the light on the live and neutral terminals.
Once we had all of the connections made, we can push in the light into the base from the top and we can also push in the Zigbee module to the hole on the back for it, making sure to leave the side with the switch facing outwards.
Adding the light to Home Assistant
The moment of truth came when I went to pair my new light with Home Assistant. I opened the app, went to Settings > Devices & Services, and selected "Add Device" in my Zigbee network. The system instantly recognized the new switch - no fuss, no complicated setup. I named it "Corner Lamp" and assigned it to my living room, keeping everything neatly organized.
With the pairing complete, I could immediately control the light through Home Assistant's interface. The app gave me smooth, responsive control - turning the light on and off worked perfectly every time.
Now that it's connected, I can start exploring all of Home Assistant's possibilities with this light. I'm already thinking about setting up automations - maybe having it turn on at sunset, or syncing it with my other smart lights.
Conclusion
This project turned out even better than I expected. The lamp looks clean and modern in my living room, and the weighted base keeps it perfectly stable. What I love most is how seamlessly it works with Home Assistant - being able to control the light from my phone or through automations adds so much convenience.
The whole build was surprisingly straightforward. Even if you're new to DIY electronics, the wiring is simple and the 3D printed parts make assembly a breeze. The plaster-filled base gives it a premium, weighted feel that really elevates the final product.
I'm already planning to make a second one for the other side of my TV stand. If you decide to build your own, don't forget you can customize the base color to match your decor.
Let me know in the comments if you'd like me to share the 3D print files - I'd be happy to make them available. Happy building!
